Shea Butter

Description

Shea butter is a fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa). It is uniquely rich in unsaponifiable matter (5–17%), including triterpenes (lupeol, α-amyrin, butyrospermol), tocopherols (vitamin E), and phytosterols, which confer substantial anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties beyond simple emollience. Its fatty acid profile consists primarily of stearic acid (~45%) and oleic acid (~40%), providing a rich occlusive barrier that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Lupeol cinnamate, a key triterpene ester in shea butter, demonstrates anti-inflammatory activity by inhibiting lipoxygenase and cyclooxygenase pathways.

Mechanism of Action

Shea butter acts as a multi-functional occlusive emollient. Its high stearic acid content creates a semi-occlusive film on the skin surface, slowing TEWL and enhancing stratum corneum hydration. Oleic acid provides skin penetration enhancement and supplementary emollience. The unsaponifiable fraction, particularly lupeol cinnamate, inhibits 5-lipoxygenase and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), reducing production of pro-inflammatory leukotrienes and prostaglandins. Phytosterols (stigmasterol, β-sitosterol) contribute to barrier lipid replenishment by mimicking endogenous cholesterol in the intercellular lipid lamellae. Vitamin E (α-tocopherol) provides antioxidant defense against lipid peroxidation.

Indications

• Dry skin / xerosis
• Atopic dermatitis
• Irritant contact dermatitis
• Barrier repair
• Chapped or cracked skin
• Post-inflammatory skin care
• Scar management (emollient support)

Available Concentrations

Side Effects

• Rarely comedogenic in some individuals (comedogenicity rating 0–2 depending on source)
• Contact allergy (rare — primarily in individuals with latex-fruit syndrome or tree nut sensitivity)
• Heavy texture may not suit oily or acne-prone skin types

Pregnancy Category

Not classified (considered safe for topical use)

Found In

Cosmetics containing Shea Butter

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