Capryloyl Glycine
Also known as: N-Octanoylglycine
Description
Capryloyl glycine is a lipoamino acid formed by the conjugation of caprylic acid (octanoic acid, C8) with the amino acid glycine. This amphiphilic molecule combines lipophilic and hydrophilic properties, enabling it to interact effectively with both the skin's lipid phase and aqueous environment. It is widely used in dermocosmetic formulations for oily and acne-prone skin due to its multifunctional activity: sebum regulation through 5α-reductase inhibition, bacteriostatic and bactericidal effects against Cutibacterium acnes and other skin commensals, and regulation of skin surface pH toward the optimal acidic range (pH 4.5–5.5). It is commonly combined with zinc PCA and/or salicylic acid in anti-blemish formulations for synergistic sebum control and antimicrobial activity.
Mechanism of Action
Capryloyl glycine acts through several complementary mechanisms. Its caprylic acid moiety provides direct antimicrobial activity by disrupting bacterial cell membrane integrity through insertion of its C8 fatty acid chain into the lipid bilayer, particularly effective against Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis. The molecule also inhibits 5α-reductase, the enzyme that converts testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT), thereby reducing androgen-stimulated sebocyte proliferation and sebum production. As an acidifying agent, capryloyl glycine lowers skin surface pH toward the physiological optimum (pH 4.5–5.5), which supports acid mantle integrity, enhances antimicrobial defense, impairs biofilm formation by pathogenic bacteria, and optimizes the activity of pH-dependent barrier enzymes (β-glucocerebrosidase, acid sphingomyelinase). The glycine moiety contributes to skin conditioning and anti-inflammatory effects.
Indications
- Acne-prone skin (sebum control, antimicrobial)
- Oily / seborrheic skin
- Seborrheic dermatitis
- Skin pH regulation
- Enlarged pores
- Combination skin management
- Anti-blemish formulations
Available Concentrations
Side Effects
- Generally well tolerated
- Mild dryness with overuse in combination with other seboregulatory agents
- Rare contact sensitization
- Slight stinging on compromised skin barrier
Contraindications
- Known hypersensitivity to capryloyl glycine or caprylic acid derivatives
- Very dry or severely barrier-compromised skin (may exacerbate dryness)
Pregnancy Category
Not classified (considered safe for topical cosmetic use)